Cycling to Budapest: a first-time adventure on EuroVelo 15 and 6

The goal was to reach Budapest by bike. From my UK home, I planned to catch a ferry to the Hook of Holland and start cycling. My route would take me through the Netherlands, Germany, France, Switzerland, Austria, Slovakia and Hungary, following EuroVelo 15 – Rhine Cycle Route and EuroVelo 6 – Atlantic-Black Sea routes along the mighty Rhine and Danube rivers. I chose this route for the opportunity to explore some of Europe’s great cities, including Cologne, Vienna and Bratislava. I also hoped that following a well-known riverside route would reduce the chances of getting hopelessly lost.

Planning my trip

The month before departure was a whirlwind of preparations. I bought an entry-level bike, named it Bruce, borrowed panniers and set off for training rides. A weekend course taught me the basics of bike maintenance. After much searching, I found a travel insurance policy that provided the right cover. Finally, it was time to set off and, lying awake on a tossing ferry, I wondered what on earth I was doing.

Setting off

A few hours later, the ferry sailed serenely into the Hook of Holland, the water was calm and the sky blue. I pedalled cautiously away from the boat, admiring the sand dunes and taking a detour to visit the tulip fields.

Unfortunately, the blue skies vanished after day one, the temperature fell and so did the rain. The first week felt tough as I adapted to life on a bike – aching legs, constantly searching for something in my panniers and wearing every item of clothing. Still, I loved exploring Rotterdam and The Hague, and cycling past the Kinderdijk windmills was a definite highlight.

As I cycled across my first border into Germany, the sky brightened and I felt the warmth of the sun on my back. I followed the Rhine through Germany, visiting Düsseldorf, Cologne and Bonn (plus the surrounding industrial estates) and enjoying the views and wine of the Mittelrhein region. Crossing into France, I marvelled at the charm of the canals and timber-framed houses in Strasbourg before continuing to picturesque Switzerland. Here the water was clearer, the inclines grew and so did the prices.

Joining the Danube

After a final coffee admiring the views of Lake Constance, it was time to head back into Germany and join the Danube. The landscape changed as I slogged uphill to Tuttlingen, nestled in the foothills of the Swabian Alps. Over the next ten days I pedalled through Bavaria, exploring the castles and monasteries including Weltenberg Abbey, with the oldest monastery brewery in the world. Reaching Passau, I climbed up to the fortress for the best view of the meeting of the rivers Inn, Ilz and Danube. The green waters of the river Inn flowing from the Alps were a stark contrast against the darker Danube.

The following day, on a chilly Sunday morning, I crossed into Austria and was greeted by craggy grey rocks and dark green water. I did a double take as a Viking boat filled with dancing Austrians sailed by, music pumping. This popular stretch into Vienna was a cycle tourer’s dream. Although busy in places, the path was smooth and well signed and the views spectacular – especially Melk Abbey and the Wachau Valley, famous for its Riesling and Grüner Veltliner.

Leaving Vienna via the Donau-Auen National Park, I soon reached the Slovakian border, which was marked by a small, faded sign and a casino advertisement. A day off the bike allowed me to explore the landmarks of Bratislava and sample the traditional dish of dumplings with sheep cheese and bacon.

One thing I quickly learned about cycle touring is that no day goes exactly to plan – whether it was a route diversion or navigating into a major city alongside the Eurovision opening ceremony. In Germany, a kind monk helped me rescue my bike from the bin store, which I had mistaken for bicycle parking. Cycling through Hungary, I bought breakfast, lunch and dinner from an off-licence – the only shop open on a public holiday.

Reaching Budapest

All too soon, I was in Hungary and heading for Budapest. The initial buzz of nearing my destination faded when the signs disappeared and the route petered out as I entered the city in sweltering heat. Despite this, standing by the Elizabeth Bridge, gazing across the river and thinking “I cycled here” is a memory I will treasure.

I wasn’t ready to finish. After a few days sightseeing and relaxing in the thermal baths, I bid farewell to the Danube and headed for Slovenia via EuroVelo 14 – Waters of Central Europe. Crossing into Slovenia, through EuroVelo 9 – Baltic-Adriatic Route, the landscape changed – the grass was green and verdant, the water a turquoise blue, and the hills much bigger. The quality of the EuroVelo route also changed. Marked as “under development,” this was something of an understatement. Cycling towards the capital, Ljubljana, most of the route was on busy roads but the scenery was spectacular. Komoot provided several back-road detours, some more practical than others. Arriving in Ljubljana, it was sadly time to head home.

Looking back

When I first planned this trip, cycle touring seemed like a new challenge and a fun way to explore the sights of Europe. I didn’t expect to love cycling as much as I did. I felt alive as I pedalled and watched the landscape slowly evolve. Whilst not perfect, the EuroVelo network makes adventures like this possible, especially for first-time cycle tourers like me, and I’m glad to have discovered Europe’s vast network of cycle routes.

As I settle back into UK life, Sunday morning cycles have become a weekend ritual and I’m planning a 2026 trip through Norway and Denmark on Bruce the bike. Hopefully, my navigation skills will have improved by then.

About the author

Ceri Gooder enjoys adventure travel including hiking, scuba diving and now cycle touring. She recently completed her first long distance cycle on Bruce the bike. If you would like to follow her work, check her Instagram account.